Retro Active

The adage “everything old is new again” clearly applies to the cyclical fashion beast. The mothers of teenagers now eyeing spring ‘95’s low-slung jeans still picture themselves wearing three-snap brushed denim numbers at the same tender age. When the same girl shops for a prom dress, her grandmother might recall the pink strapless satin gown with gold sequins that Sandra Dee might have worn.

While any fashion designer with a reverence for retro also flaunts a passion for the dramatic, many of the tried-and-true designs of the past are the classics of the present and future. At right, a few decades that have come and gone, what made them memorable and which designers of today are influenced and inspired by them.

‘30s

The Look: Clingy, bias-cut dresses in Depression prints and dusty earth tones succeeded the flapper looks of the ‘20s. Once girl Fridays began infiltrating the workplace, fitted peplum suits with narrow, mid-calf skirts proliferated.

Icons: Bette Davis, Barbara Stanwyck.

Who Does It Best: Zelda, Badgley Mischka.

Style Hallmarks: Waist-whittling jackets with face-framing collars; Bakelite buttons. Elaborate construction techniques such as French seams, handmade buttonholes and edges, hand-beading, whipstitching and fagoting.

Designer View: “The ‘30s was a time of romance, all those sleek silhouettes enhanced by hand-workmanship and minute attention to detail. Those were the foundations of the great design houses.”--Renee Shaw, Zelda

‘40s

The Look: Architectural, occasionally austere jackets paired with narrow skirts and elegant blouses. The earliest onset of androgynous looks paved the way for trousers as a staple in American women’s fashion.

Icons: Joan Crawford, Marlene Dietrich, Myrna Loy.

Who Does It Best: Claude Montana, Norma Kamali.

Style Hallmarks: Expansive shoulders; wide lapels; flattering, fluid pants; elaborate cuff treatments; covetable nylons made scarce during wartime.

Designer View: “I think the ‘40s represent classic American design and it is in the classic quality of the period, as well as in its tribute to women, where I find the greatest influence in my work.”--Norma Kamali

‘50s

The Look: The silhouette of the ‘50s was defined by Christian Dior’s New Look: fitted bodice; belted, cinched waist contrasted with a dramatic, flowing skirt. The shape appeared in tops and skirts as well as house dresses.

Icons: Lucille Ball, Audrey Hepburn, Doris Day, Barbara Billingsley.

Who Does It Best: Isaac Mizrahi, California Design by Dorothy Samuel.

Style Hallmarks: Button-back bodices; Peter Pan collars; cashmere twin sets; three-quarter sleeves; skirts as backdrops for poodles and polka-dots

Designer View: “The ‘50s were glamorous, apolitical and the last time we had a shape in fashion that was grown-up and not at all obvious.”--Isaac Mizrahi

‘60s

The Look: Groovy dress and coat ensembles a la “That Girl.” Edwardian-in-spired micro-mini skirts worn with fitted knit tops, fishnet hose and meter-maid caps, all a fashion outgrowth of the Fab Four and other British trendsetters.

Icons: Jean Shrimpton, Twiggy, Marlo Thomas, Jackie Kennedy.

Who Does It Best: Istante by Gianni Versace, Vivienne Tam, Anna Sui.

Style Hallmarks: Daisies; Summer of Love-inspired appliques and patches; peace signs; artsy-craftsy denim ensembles; gauze and macrame-enhanced bell-sleeved tops; ladylike A-line shifts; futuristic white plastic boots.

Designer View: “To me, what’s inspirational are the clean, simple lines and the ease of the shapes, because that’s what we want in the ‘90s.”--Vivienne Tam

‘70s

The Look: Elongated vests and wide-leg-pant ensembles in man-made materials. Skirts moved down the knee as more women went to work.

Icons: Mary Tyler Moore, Farrah Fawcett, Susan Dey.

Who Does It Best: Mark Eisen, Cynthia Rowley.

Style Hallmarks: Panchos; low-riding, snap-front jeans; work shirts; sleeves ending in ruffled cuffs; floppy cotton hats; military-inspired peacoats and navy bell-bottoms; maxi skirts; jumpsuits; palazzo pants.

Designer View: “I love the happy-go-lucky looks of the ‘70s, it was a very fun, carefree time, but much of what was done then was too exaggerated. I feel like now I can incorporate historical references while correcting some of the fashion mistakes of that time.”--Cynthia Rowley

‘80s

The Look: Heavily accessorized power-suit ensembles in rich jewel colors. Hats, gloves, neck chains in the Chanel tradition flourished as women strove to copy the moneyed, “Dynasty”-inspired looks.

Icons: Joan Collins, Ivana Trump, Nancy Reagan.

Who Does It Best: Escada, St. John Knits, Bicci by Florine Wachter.

Style Hallmarks: Embroidery, beading, applique, bejeweled buttons, studded denim ensembles, designer jeans, dress-for-success silk bow ties, leggings, purses with conspicuous designer logos.

Designer View: “In the ‘80s, women realized they had fewer hours to shop. But they still wanted a total look with a matching scarf and belt. We’re carrying that forward because the 21st century woman is facing an even faster pace.”--Marie Gray, St. John Knits

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Where to Buy

Stores for the designer lines in the photographs: Zelda is available at Saks Fifth Avenue, Fred Segal, Gloria S., Ice and Traffic; Norma Kamali is available at Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus and select Bullock’s stores; Isaac Mizrahi is available at Barneys New York, Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus; Istante is available at Istante Versus in Beverly Hills; Cynthia Rowley is available at Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue; Escada is available at Nordstrom, Neiman Marcus and in Escada boutiques.