In the Mood / Seafood Salads

The best summer entree may be a salad--with seafood, of course:

* Barney Greengrass: Fresh slices of smoked sturgeon are served on a bed of spinach and watercress with a sherry vinaigrette: simple and perfect. The big new summer menu will feature a teriyaki seafood salad on mixed greens with a sesame dressing and a smoked salmon salad with red onion, avocado, corn, arugula and a three-vinegar dressing. Salads are served with matzo and bialy sticks.(Seafood salads, $11 to $16.75.) Barneys New York, 9570 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills, (310) 777-5877.

* Michael’s: Michael’s kitchen is famous for its composed salads. The popular seafood versions include a grilled salmon salad with roasted sweet peppers, grilled onions and a roma tomato vinaigrette; and a Nicoise salad made with seared Hawaiian tuna, Nicoise olives, giant Spanish capers, new potatoes, grilled onions and a tarragon vinaigrette. (Seafood salads; lunch, $17.50 to $19.50; dinner $22.50 to $24.50.) 1147 3rd St., Santa Monica, (310) 451-0843.

* La Cachette: Chef Jean Francois Meteigner’s luscious entree-sized luncheon salads with seafood include a warm Maine lobster salad with artichokes, asparagus and white truffle oil; an ahi tuna Nicoise with black olive dressing; and a salad made with house-cured smoked fish and warm potatoes, capers, lemon and virgin olive oil. The lobster salad is also available at dinner. (Seafood salads, $15 to $18.) 10506 Little Santa Monica Blvd., Century City, (310) 470-4992.

* Porta Via: The best shrimp salad in town might be found at this small sidewalk cafe in Beverly Hills. Large Gulf shrimp are grilled and served with radicchio and other lettuces, pencil asparagus and cannellini beans in a basil garlic vinaigrette. (Grilled shrimp salad, $10.50.) 424 N. Canon, Beverly Hills, (310) 274-6534.

* Book Soup Bistro: After a good long browse at Book Soup, step next door for chef Andre Lechien’s dreamy house-cured salmon salad with slivers of celery root and green apple in a pink grapefruit vinaigrette with a subtle dash of truffle oil. (Salmon salad, $8.95.) 8800 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, (310) 657-1072.

* Fish Co.: Sometimes, only a classic seafood louie will do: hard-boiled egg, mounds of crab or shrimp, iceberg lettuce, lemon wedges and remoulade--er, Thousand Island dressing. (Crab or shrimp louie, $12.95.) 174 Kinney St., Santa Monica, (310) 392-8366.

* Pinot Bistro: Joachim Splichal’s restaurant often has excellent salads at lunch. Try the chilled planked salmon salad with avocado, cucumber, watercress and sweet onion. (Salmon salad, $14.50.) 12969 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, (818) 990-0500.