1996 Seghesio Family Vineyards “Omaggio,” Sonoma. (About $29.)

This wine pays homage to the four generations of Seghesios who have made wine from vineyards in the Alexander, Dry Creek and Russian River valleys over the last 103 years. Deep ruby red, with aromas of blackberry, currant and spice, it’s a velvety, highly extracted wine with a good snap of tannin and a long, smooth finish. “Omaggio” is a blend of Barbera and Sangiovese (both originally planted by Angela and Edvardo Seghesio in 1895), with the Merlot and Cabernet planted by the next generation. It’s the California equivalent of a super-Tuscan, and it beats many super-Tuscans twice its price. Seghesio is a winery to keep your eye on; it’s doing great work with Italian varietals and Zinfandel as well.

Available at Wine Exchange, Orange, and Wally’s, Los Angeles, among other wine shops.