The Candid Pumpkin

Which pumpkin makes the best pie? It is a matter of opinion, certainly.

The Times Test Kitchen prepared three pies using different pumpkin fillings: one made from canned pumpkin puree (Libby’s), one made from a sugar pumpkin and one made from a regular Halloween-type carving pumpkin.

The regular pumpkin produced a pie filling that was bland and stringy. It would not be our choice.

The sugar pumpkin produced a filling with a slight green tinge and what one taster described as a “vegetal” taste. Another said it tasted “wild.” The sugar pumpkin intrigued us and would make a nice change of pie at the table, we decided. We found, though, in making the pie ahead and freezing it, that it began to puddle and ooze water the longer it sat after thawing. We wouldn’t recommend freezing it.

Finally, the pumpkin pie using canned pumpkin was our favorite. The filling was a deep rich color, the spices stood out and it tasted as pumpkin pie should. And yes, it was the easiest to make.

--THE TIMES TEST KITCHEN