Romancing the Pie

“Filet Mignon Proves Hearty and Will Lure Husbands Home”

“He-Man Dish Tickles Cockles of Male Heart”

There you have the headline and sub-headline, respectively, of a rather racy food story that appeared in The Times’ women’s pages on Nov. 1, 1936.

Food writer Lona Alison suggestd throwing a little feminine charm into the mix:

“Sweet words and soft music, please,” the article began. “Close the drapes. Dim the lights. Place a bouquet here and there. We’re going to speak of something very lovely and tender. Romance? Well, it certainly is much concerned with it. Yes, of course, it has to do with cookery--the very backbone of it, to give you a hint.”

Alison suggested serving filet mignon (or more specifically, tenderloin) with bundles of asparagus held by tiny rings of green pepper, mashed potatoes topped with melted American Cheddar cheese, a mixed green salad and coffee. “[E]ven the least flirtatious wife knows that nothing is more conducive to connubial bliss than an occasional juicy steak dinner,” she wrote.

Then, for dessert: a luscious Deep Dish Apple Pie. The pie is sticky and sweet, warm and satisfying, but not too filling because only a top crust is used. Raisins add a nice touch.

The Times Test Kitchen used the pastry recipe from “The New Doubleday Cookbook” (Doubleday, 1985) because Alison didn’t provide her own. We were hesitant at first, but fusing the old with the new worked well.

Serve the pie warm with vanilla ice cream or whipped cream, and you may see sparks fly.

*

Deep Dish Apple Pie

Active Work Time: 30 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour 15 minutes

FLAKY PASTRY

1 1/4 cups flour plus more for rolling

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/3 cup shortening

1/4 cup ice water

* Combine flour and salt in mixing bowl. Cut in shortening with pastry blender until mixture resembles coarse meal. Sprinkle water over surface, 1 tablespoon at a time, and mix with fork until dough holds together. Shape gently into ball on floured surface, then flatten to 1-inch-thick circle, evening up rough edges. Roll out dough with lightly floured rolling pin into about 12-inch-diameter circle.

ASSEMBLY

5 tart apples, such as Granny Smith, peeled and thinly sliced (about 6 cups)

3 tablespoons butter, melted

1 cup sugar

1 teaspoon grated orange zest

1/2 cup raisins

Butter for greasing pan

2 tablespoons orange juice

1 egg

Vanilla ice cream and whipped cream for serving, optional

* Toss apple slices with melted butter. Mix sugar with orange zest. Layer apple slices, then raisins, then sugar in greased 9-inch pie pan. Sprinkle top with orange juice.

* Cover with Flaky Pastry, crimping edges of dough to pan. Beat egg then brush top of crust. Cut steam vents in top. Bake at 450 degrees 10 minutes. Reduce heat to 350 degrees and bake until crust is golden and shiny, 35 minutes. Serve warm.

8 servings. Each serving: 378 calories; 201 mg sodium; 43 mg cholesterol; 14 grams fat; 63 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams protein; 0.75 gram fiber.