2003 Carlisle Russian River Valley Zinfandel ‘Fava Ranch’

This stunning Russian River Zinfandel from Carlisle Winery is its first from Fava Ranch. The vineyard was planted by the Fava brothers between 1907 and 1922, so these are some old vines. Included in the mix are some Syrah and Petite Syrah interplanted with the Zin.

The result is a dark ruby wine, heady with the scent of ripe berries, wild herbs, cracked black pepper and spice. At 15.9% alcohol, it’s that rare wine with both power and finesse. The alcohol is so well-integrated with the fruit and ripe tannins you don’t feel it at all. Not that it isn’t a big wine. Think Muhammad Ali making like a butterfly.

Obviously, you’re not going to pair this gorgeous one with a wimpy veal cutlet or a mere chicken. It needs something bold to show off its stuff -- maybe a thick-cut porterhouse or T-bone on the grill, a daube cooked in bottles of Rhone red, or a suckling pig.

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Region: Sonoma

Price: About $29

Style: Power with finesse

Food it goes with: Big rich steaks on the grill, daube cooked in a Zin or Rhone, suckling pig.

Where you find it: Amazing Grapes Wine Store in Rancho Santa Margarita, (949) 888-9463; Liquid Wine & Spirits in Chatsworth, (818) 709-5019; Manhattan Liquors in Manhattan Beach, (310) 374-3454; Mission Wines in South Pasadena, (626) 403-9463; Wade’s Wines in Westlake Village (818) 597 9463; Wine House in Los Angeles, (310) 479-3731.

-- S. Irene Virbila