<b>Photos:</b> Bill Chait navigates L.A. restaurant business

Exterior view of the Rivera Restaurant in Los Angeles.  (Allen J. Schaben / Los Angeles Times)

Chefs Christian Page and Nancy Silverton with their french fries at Short Order in the Original Farmers Market in Los Angeles.  (Francine Orr / Los Angeles Times)

The Frisée Lardon Raft at Short Order.  (Christina House / Los Angeles Times)

A waiter takes an order at Picca, a new Peruvian restaurant in Los Angeles.  (Glenn Koenig / Los Angeles Times)

The Ceviche Criollo as served at Picca.  (Glenn Koenig / Los Angeles Times)

Playa in Los Angeles.  (Kirk McKoy / Los Angeles Times)

Tamale Chipotle: wild-mushroom duxelles dumpling, filet mignon, chipotle béarnaise at Playa in Los Angeles.  (Kirk McKoy / Los Angeles Times)

Sotto, a new Italian restaurant on Pico Boulevard.  (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)