Newsletter: In the kitchen: Rethinking potatoes

I don’t know about you, but I’ve really enjoyed the winter weather we’ve been experiencing in Southern California lately. It’s given me a chance to focus on the indoor projects that have been piling up: cleaning out closets, sorting through old cookbooks and replacing my faucet aerators and shower head with low-flow alternatives (we’re still not out of the drought). My Dutch oven and slow cooker also have seen a lot of use lately; nothing like slow-cooked stews and other comfort foods to warm up the house and those around the dinner table.

I also fixed Martha Rose Shulman’s excellent take on pizzoccheri earlier this week, a recipe from her new story on potatoes. It’s a simple buckwheat pasta dish flavored with kale (which is in season now), potatoes and cabbage, tossed with Gruyere and Parmesan cheeses. Elegant but simple to make, it’s a great weeknight dinner idea.

— Noelle Carter

A FEW GREAT POTATO RECIPES

Pasta may be one of the last places one would think to look for potatoes, but they make a wonderful combination. Martha Rose Shulman shares recipes for a few of her favorite potato-driven dishes, including the pizzoccheri-inspired recipe mentioned above, and a strozzapreti pasta tossed with rich pesto, bright green beans and potatoes. One of our favorites was her roasted potato pizza recipe flavored with a simple tomato sauce, rosemary and Parmesan.

Pizza with roasted potatoes.

(Christina House / For The Times )

WHAT TO DO WITH ALL THE KALE IN SEASON NOW

Sure, you may be able to find kale throughout the year at major supermarkets, but the greens prefer colder weather and are generally in season through the winter months. Varieties range from various shades of green to violet, red and even hints of blue. The popular vegetable is found in everything from smoothies to salads, soups and stews. We share tips for using, as well as some of our favorite recipes.

Italian sausage and kale gratin

(Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times )

VIDEO: HOW TO USE A MORTAR AND PESTLE

RECIPE: GARLIC-SHALLOT BUTTER MUSHROOMS FROM CRAFT

Mushroom recipes don’t get much simpler than this one, from Craft Los Angeles. Take a blend of mushrooms and sauté them in a garlic-shallot butter and toss with chopped fresh herbs. Easy as it sounds, the flavor is rich and earthy, with no shortage of garlic.

Craft’s mushrooms.

(Glenn Koenig / Los Angeles Times )

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